FAQs

Q:  How long does it take to get the cards I ordered in the mail?

A:  We usually ship cards the following business day via USPS first class mail.  Once shipped, orders typically arrive in 3 to 7 days.  Keep in mind the post office can be slow at times.  Packages taking more than 7 days is uncommon, but does happen now & then.  Feel free to email us at sales@jerseycoastcollectibles.com to check the status of your order.  For orders outside the United States, expect to get your cards anywhere from 5 to 20 days.  If you need the cards faster email us at sales@jerseycoastcollectibles.com or call Ed at 856-373-0011.  Also, please understand this is a sole proprietorship, meaning, this is a 1 person operation.  If I get sick, or go on vacation, or have a family emergency, the shipping time may be longer.

Q:  How do you ship the cards?

A:  All cards are shipped in soft sleeves and top loaders inside a team bag in a bubble mailer. All other items are carefully packaged and shipped via USPS or UPS in well protected boxes.

Q:  How do I know I will receive my cards once you receive my payment?

A:  If this is a concern to you, I understand.  You will receive a confirmation email  when your order has been approved. You will also receive a confirmation email with the tracking number once we have shipped to you.  I also have a 100% feedback rating on eBay.  Once there, you can read all the transactions I’ve done on eBay and people’s responses to the transactions.  Also, if you feel more comfortable hearing a human voice rather than communicating through a computer screen, my phone number is 856-373-0011.  Ask for Ed. :)

Q:  How much is shipping?

A:  Shipping is determined at time of checkout. Click on the Add to Cart button and there you can calculate the shipping charges. With all the different zones and regions, it is difficult for us to give you an exact amount for the shipping rates.

Q:  How can I pay you?

A:  You may pay by cash, check, money order, or PayPal.  Please note, as the ‘ole saying goes, I am not responsible for lost cash in the mail.

Q:  Are all of your cards in Mint condition?

A:  The condition of each card is specified on each page.  Keep in mind, I am not an expert grader.  I do look at each card I sell, and I grade it by eyeballing it, checking the corners, making sure it’s free of stains and creases, etc.  Professional graders spend enormous amounts of time meticulously studying each card they grade.  They charge a fee for their service and rightfully so.  Since I am not a professional grader, and I do not charge a fee for grading, I will not be held liable if my non-professional grade does not match up with a professional’s grade if you submit your card for grading.  However, if the card does not meet your condition standards before you submit it for grading, you may send the card back to me for a full refund.

Q:  Do you have any other cards besides the ones listed on your page?

A:  I might!  Email us at sales@jerseycoastcollectibles.com and let me know what you are looking for and I’ll let you know what I have. If I do not have it here, I have several other contacts that might just have it.

Q:  Can you tell me how much this particular card(s) I have is worth?

A:  I get asked this question more often than any other question combined, and unfortunately, I usually do not have the time to answer your specific request.  There are sites on the Internet that sell price guides.  Or you could visit your local card dealer (look in your yellow pages under “sports cards” or “sports memorabilia”) and show them your card(s) in person, and they might be able to tell you its value.  I wouldn’t recommend calling though, since some dealers get swarmed with these calls and it’s a time consuming process and doesn’t generate any money for their time.  Ditto if you email dealers.

 

Q:  How do I get my cards graded?

A:  There are many grading companies out there that will grade your cards for a fee.  The most popular are:  PSA and BGS.

Q: With all the different sized trading cards on the market, how do I know which Pro-Mold card holder will fit my card? For instance, I have real thick cards that have part of a player’s jersey in them and I also have cards that are just a little thicker then the traditional style trading cards but not as thick as the jersey cards.

A: Right now Pro-Mold has five different sizes of holders available for Trading cards:

 

 

 

Style

Examples of Trading Cards that go in these holders

Maximum Card Thickness that this type of holder will hold

Comments

Pro-Mold Holders Available (click on the link to see the holder)

Item Names
Regular Card Traditional sized cards like Topps Trading Cards

Up to 20 Point

The mainstream card size thickness since the inception of trading cards Mini-Snap, New Improved Mini-Snap, Stackable Mini-Snap, Snap-Tite, Magnetic Card Holder, One Screw Screwdown, One Screw 1/2″ Deluxe, Four screw screwdown PC1, PC1II, PC1S, MH1, MH1UV, PC12, PC5, PC5II, PC14, PC11
Thicker Card Fleer Flair, Action Packed, some of the thinner memorabilia cards, Etc.

From 50 to 80 Point

Equals 3 to 4 regular size cards Mini-Snap, Magnetic Card Holder, One Screw Screwdown, One Screw 1/2″ Deluxe PC3, MH2, MH2UV, MH5, MH5UV, PC6, PC6II, PC15
Real Thick Card (also known as Memorabilia Card) Jersey Cards or any other kind of real thick memorabilia card.

From 100 Point to 150 Point

Equals 6 to 8 regular size cards  Mini-Snap, Magnetic Card Holder, One Screw Screwdown, Four Screw Screwdown,

One Screw 1/2″ Deluxe,PC20, MH3, MH3UV, MH6, MH6UV, PC18, PC18II, PC19, PC16, Super ThickOversized

Memorabilia Cards like Upper Deck Sweet Spot / ExquisiteUp to 180 PointEquals 9 to 12

regular size cards10 count plastic box, Super Thick One Screw 1/2″+ Deluxe, Magnetic Card HolderPC10, PC17, MH4, MH4UVSuper Duper ThickOversized

Memorabilia Cards like Upper Deck Sweet SpotUp to 440 PointEquals 15+

regular size cards25 count plastic boxPC25

To find out which size of a card holder will work best for your thicker card, try this simple test:

1. Take 4 regular size, thinner cards like Topps Trading cards and stack them neatly in a pile.

2. Take the thicker card and set it right next to the stack of Topps cards and see which is higher; the pile of Topps Cards or the thicker card.

3. If the pile of Topps Cards is higher then you can use the trading card holder that holds the “Thicker Cards” (2nd row in the table above). If the thicker card is higher then the pile of Topps Cards then you will have to use a “Memorabilia Card” or “Real Thick Card” holder (third row in the table above).

4. If the card is super thick, like the Upper Deck Sweet Spot Cards, then use the Super Thick Holders. Some of the newer Upper Deck Sweet Spot Cards will have to go into the Super Duper Thick Holder.

Here is another helpful guide good for determining which toploader you need.

 

 

Take a stack of standard sports cards (commons) and lay them on top of each other. Place them next to the thicker insert and refer to the chart below to figure out what thickness your card is.

 

 

  • 1 Regular Card = 20 Point  – Use All Standard or Regular Card Holders
  • 3 Regular Cards = 59 Point – Use 59 Point Holders (Also called Action Packed Size or Thick)
  • 4-5 Regular Cards = 70-79 Point – Use 79 Point Holders or Extra Thick Holders
  • 6-8 Regular Cards = 120-138 Point – Use 138 Point Holders (Commonly called Memorabilia Size or Real Thick or 3.5 mm)
  • 9-12 Regular Cards = 197 Point – Use 197 Point Holders (Also called Super Thick)
  • 10-19 Regular cards = 240 Point – Use 240 Point Holders (Also called Super Thick

 

Another helpful guide for toploaders!! Very informative.

Manufacturers don’t make cards all the same sizes, but in general, you can follow these rules:

Most base cards will fit into regular size top loaders: Ultra Pro 3×4 Premium Topload Card Holder – 25ct Pack

 

Thicker base cards, such as Topps Triple Threads, Gold Standard, etc., fit nicely into 79pt top loaders: BCW 3×4 x 2mm -Thick Card Topload Holder 79pt (25ct Pack)

 

Single color jersey cards (not prime/patches) fit nicely into 109pt top loaders: BCW 3×4 x 2.75mm -Thick Card Topload Holder 109pt (10ct Pack)

 

Prime patches/jersey’s (called “prime” by Panini, Topps usually calls these patches) fit nicely into 138pt top loaders: BCW 3×4 x 3.5mm -Thick Card Topload Holder 138pt -10 ct Pack

 

Extra thick cards, like Exquisite or Five Star, fit nicely into 197pt top loaders: BCW 3×4 x 5mm -Thick Card Topload Holder 197pt (10 ct. pack). (I should mention that many extra thick cards fit loosely into these 197pt top loaders – I prefer loose than too tight. If you want the tighter fit, go with these 180pt’s: Ultra Pro 3×4 Super Thick Topload 180pt Card Holder – 10ct Pack)

Some cards are so thick they won’t even fit into the 197pt, these cards are very rare. But those you can fit into 240pt top loaders: BCW 3×4 x 7mm – Thick Card Topload Holder 240pt – 10ct Pack.

Some cards are even thicker than that, booklet cards for example. What I do with booklet cards is put them into a 25 count slider box (BCW 25 Count 2 Piece Slider Box – 2ct Pack), which will usually be a loose fit. Then I put a piece of cardboard in there with it. I keep putting pieces of cardboard until the card doesn’t bounce around in the slider box, but not too tight to create too much strain. This is the hardest, but once you get used to it, it works great. You can also fold a sleeve and put that in there, if you just need a tiny more snug fit.

Remember, all the above fitting strategies have the card fitting loose-lightly snug in the top loader. The cards do NOT fit tight in top loaders. So you’ll need some team bags to seal over the open end of the top loader to make sure the card doesn’t slide out. (BCW Team Set Bag Resealable – 3 3/8 x 4 1/4 (100ct Pack) I also use Scotch Magic Tape (tabbed on one end so it’s easy to peal off) to crimp the open end of the top loader closed. This way the card cannot slide out, even if the team bag opens during transit.